How to Restring a Bass Guitar

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As builders and repair techs, we restring hundreds of basses every year—everything from road-worn P-basses to modern five-strings with exotic tops. The process is simple when you follow a precise sequence and mind a few small details that pay off in tuning stability, intonation, and long-term playability. Here’s the way we do it at the bench.

Before You Start

Replace One String At A Time (Recommended)

On most jobs, we keep steady tension on the neck and replace bass strings one by one. That keeps the truss rod working in a familiar range and preserves your setup as you go. Start with the thickest string (E on a 4-string, B on a 5-string) and move toward the lightest. Working heavy-to-light helps “keep orientation honest”—your bass stays stable on the bench and you’re less likely to snag a fresh wrap while wrangling a heavier string.

Replace-as-you-go also gives you fast feedback: you can hear and feel each new string settle, confirm it’s seated cleanly in the nut and saddle, and correct any winding or alignment hiccups before you’ve repeated a mistake four or five times.

Note: Some unusual systems (e.g., tremolo bridges or floating bridge conversions) may shift when fully detensioned. If you’re unsure, take a quick reference photo before you start and proceed one string at a time.

When Removing All Strings Makes Sense

There are times to clear the deck. If you’re doing a deep clean, polishing frets, or addressing grime under the strings, remove the full set. Just plan for a short setup pass afterward. With all tension off the neck, relief can change a touch; fresh strings can also shift action and intonation. No panic—tiny, measured adjustments get you back to spec quickly. We’ll cover those checks near the end.

Note: Before you pull everything, mark or photograph saddle positions and pickup heights. That makes returning to baseline faster after service.

What You’ll Need On The Bench

Bench Essentials

Optional but nice: low-tack tape to protect the headstock face near tuners, a small parts tray for cut string ends, and safety glasses. Never hurts.

Know Your Hardware

Bridge Styles: Top-Load Vs String-Through

Feed the string exactly the way your bridge intends. On a top-load bass bridge, the ball end usually anchors at the rear plate; on string-through designs, the string travels through the body and up over the saddle. Either way, seat the ball end fully—you should feel and hear it settle. On many basses, string-through increases break angle over the saddle, which can improve downforce and stability. Be mindful of string length when installing bass strings:

  • Silked sets – The silk wrap should end before the saddle, leaving only the clean metal winding in contact for proper tone and intonation.
  • Tapered sets – The tapered section should sit directly on the saddle, allowing the core to vibrate freely. Keep both the ball-end anchor windings and the thicker full windings clear of the saddle. 

If the taper lands in the wrong place, choose a different string length (short/medium/long/extra-long) or top-load instead.

Note: Not every string set is rated for string-through installation (especially some heavy/tapered low-B strings). Check the manufacturer’s guidance and match winding length to your bridge style.

Headstock Layouts (4-In-Line, 2×2, 3×2)

No matter the layout, the rules are the same:

  • The string should leave the tuner toward the centerline of the headstock.
  • Wraps must travel downward on the post to increase break angle across the nut.
  • Ensure there are sufficient wraps on the post to produce proper downward force across the nut. This maintains tuning stability and prevents string rattle.

Don’t fixate on “clockwise vs counterclockwise” in isolation—focus on where the string exits the post and that your wraps descend neatly. If you keep those two truths, every layout behaves.

Note: Ignore blanket “always turn this way” advice—on reverse or mixed layouts, wind so the string’s path is straight from its nut slot and the coil stack descends. That’s the invariant.

Step 1: Check the Initial Neck Relief with Feeler Gauges

Before we get started with removing the old strings, we need to check the neck relief because the tension of the strings affects the neck's curvature or bow. When you remove old strings and before installing new ones, the neck is under different tension, which can cause it to straighten or back-bow temporarily. Checking the neck relief before restringing helps you understand the current state of the neck and whether it needs adjustment once the new strings are on and tuned.

To check neck relief on a bass using feeler gauges, follow these steps:

  1. Tune your bass guitar to pitch.
  2. Put a capo on the first fret.
  3. Hold down the lowest (usually the E) string at the last fret or where the neck joins the body (often around the 15th to 17th fret).
  4. Use your free hand to slide a feeler gauge between the bottom of the string and the top of the 7th or 8th fret (the fretwire, not the fingerboard). This spot is typically where the neck's curvature (relief) is the greatest.
  5. Select the feeler gauge thickness that just fits with slight friction without pushing the string out of place.
  6. Repeat this for the low E string, and optionally the high G string, to check consistency.
  7. The feeler gauge thickness you find represents your neck relief. Typical relief values for bass guitars are around 008–.015" (0.20–0.38 mm).
  8. If the gauge is too thick to fit, you have too little relief and need to loosen the truss rod. If there is excessive space beyond gauge thickness, you need to tighten the truss rod to reduce relief. Learn how to adjust your truss rod in our blog.

Step 2: Remove The Old String (Safely)

Detune, Then Cut

Never cut a string under full tension. Back the bass tuner off until the string is slack. We’ll usually detune, pull gentle slack toward the middle of the string, and clip there. That gives you two manageable pieces with minimal coil memory. Pull the headstock end out of the post, then withdraw the ball end from the bridge. On string-through bodies, guide the ball gently to protect the finish at the ferrules.

Note: Flatwound/pressurewound strings can unravel if cut carelessly. Always make a firm 90° pre-bend before any cut, and follow brand-specific guidance—some flats are not meant to be trimmed.

Step 3: Clean & Prep While It’s Open

Fretboard And Frets

Take the opportunity to wipe away debris. A dry microfiber lifts dust; a barely damp cloth (water or ColorTone Clean + Shine only) handles sweat residue. For unfinished rosewood or ebony, a light touch of conditioner/oil restores luster—apply sparingly and wipe back thoroughly. Avoid oils on finished maple boards; they’re sealed and only need a wipe. If the frets show oxidation or feel rough during bends, drop on a fret guard and give them a quick polish with our fret erasers. and make a few passes with your preferred polish. Clean metal feels better and extends string life.

Note: Unsure whether a dark board is sealed? Treat it like finished maple (dry wipe only). Less is more—over-oiling attracts grime and can swell end grain.

Quick Hardware Check

  • Nut Slots: Strings should glide without binding. If you hear “pings” when tuning or see the string jump at the nut, add a tiny touch of dry lube in each slot.
  • Saddles: Confirm each saddle groove is smooth and free of burrs; rough spots chew strings.
  • Tuners: Check that bushings are snug and tuner screws are firm (not cranked). Slop here shows up as tuning drift.

Note: Use instrument-safe, non-migrating lubes. Petroleum greases can creep onto finishes and strings.

Step 4: Install The New String

Feed And Align

Load the string through the bridge—top-load or through-body as designed. Make sure the ball is fully seated. Bring the string up and over the saddle, through its nut slot, and to the correct tuner post. Keep gentle tension so it tracks straight. This is the best time to verify the taper/silk position: no silk over the nut or saddle, and no exposed core sitting on the saddle unless the set is designed for it.

Note: Choose strings by winding length (ball-to-taper/silk), not just scale length on the package. String-through short-scales can need longer windings; many 5-strings benefit from a tapered B for clean saddle contact.

Measure Length & Crimp

Clean winds start with correct length and a positive bend.

You have two reliable approaches:

  1. “Two Pegs Past” Rule (≈4"/10 cm): Pull the string past its target post to the next two posts (on a 4-in-line) or roughly 4" beyond the tuner on other layouts. Mark or put a sharp 90° pre-bend (crimp) at that point, then cut just after the bend. This usually yields 2–3 tidy wraps on thicker strings and 3–4 on lighter ones.

  2. Measured Offset Rule (~2–3" + Trim): For bass posts with larger diameters, measure about 2–3 inches past the post, make a 90° crimp, then trim an extra ½–1 inch to taste depending on how many wraps you prefer. Heavier E/B strings are happy with 2–3 wraps; D/G can benefit from 3–4 to increase nut break angle.

The crimp is insurance. It tells the string where to start bending so you don’t scrape windings on the post hole and it helps lock that first wrap.

Note: Treat these as starting heuristics. Post diameter, gauge, and layout vary—aim for 2–3 wraps on heavy strings and 3–4 on lighter ones by adjusting cut length. For flats/pressurewounds, always pre-bend before trimming; some brands advise no trimming at all.

Wind Down The Post—No Overlaps

Feed the bent end into the tuner hole and pull gently back to set the ball end. Start your first wrap above the tag to “pin” it, then guide every subsequent wrap below the previous one so the coil stack descends the post. Keep light finger tension and let the tuner do the work—neither crushing the string nor letting it spring loose.

Watch for two common errors:

  • Crossed winds: An overlap invites slack and tuning jump. If you cross, unwind and fix it now.
  • Twisted string: If the string looks like a candy cane as you tune, you’ve trapped twist. Back off, straighten the segment between nut and tuner, and retension smoothly.

Note: Keep the path from nut slot to tuner perfectly straight during winding; that’s more important than the turn direction itself.

Set The Witness Point At The Saddle

With the string slightly below pitch, press gently on the speaking length right in front of the saddle to define a crisp break angle. This “witness point” eliminates a lazy curve that can cause false readings during intonation and erratic tuning. We also like to set a light witness at the nut—a fingertip press just behind the nut slot—especially on lighter strings.

Note: “Press, don’t mash.” You’re defining the bend, not denting windings. Excess force can bruise wraps and shorten string life.

Step 5: Stretch, Tune, Repeat

Stabilize The Set

Bring the string to pitch, then stabilize:

  1. With your fretting hand, lift the string a half-inch along the length in a few spots between the pickups.
  2. Retune to pitch.
  3. Repeat the gentle stretch-and-retune cycle two or three times until the string holds steady.

Do this for each string before moving to setup checks. Fresh bass strings relax; a few controlled cycles now save you from constant retuning later.

Note: Stretch gently, especially with coated strings—overstretching can damage coatings or stress windings.

Quick Post-Restring Check

Getting Back to the Original Neck Relief

Once the new strings are on, stretched, and holding pitch, repeat the same relief check you did at the start. Capo the first fret, fret the lowest string where the neck meets the body, and slide your feeler gauge over the 7th–8th fret. Compare what you feel now to your reference gauge from Step 1.

If the gauge that “just fit” before now feels tight or won’t slip under, the neck has straightened and you’ve lost relief—loosen the truss rod slightly. If there’s noticeably more air than your target gauge, you’ve gained relief—tighten the truss rod slightly. Work in small moves (⅛–¼ turn at a time), always retuning to pitch and rechecking after each adjustment until you’re back to your original number or preferred range.

You don’t have to chase perfection to the thousandth—getting close to your baseline is enough for a familiar feel and clean playability. Once relief is back where you want it, you’re ready to move on to fine-tuning action and intonation.

Note: If the truss rod resists or feels maxed out, stop and investigate rather than forcing it. A stuck rod is a repair job, not a setup tweak.

Intonation, Pickup and Saddle Height

If you’ve made a big jump in string gauge, construction, or overall tension (for example, rounds to heavy flats, or light to extra-heavy sets), treat this as a fresh setup rather than a simple reset. Expect to revisit not only neck relief, but also saddle height, intonation at the bridge, and pickup height so the bass still plays in tune and the new strings are balanced and responsive. Check out our Ultimate Bass Guitar Setup guide for more.

Pro Tips & Common Mistakes

Avoid String Twist & Crossed Winds

Twist weakens tone and complicates tuning. Keep the string aligned and untwisted as you start the wind. Guide each wrap with a fingertip so the coil stack grows downward in clean, parallel turns. If an overlap happens, fix it immediately—it won’t get better with tension.

Note: Most tuning instability after a restring traces back to crossed winds, trapped twist, or too few wraps. Target the wrap counts noted above.

Don’t Skip Witness Points

A lazy arc over the saddle can make a brand-new set feel “rubbery” and intonate unpredictably. Set witness points gently—press, don’t mash—to define the speaking length without denting windings.

Note: Always set witness points before you begin intonation; otherwise you’ll chase moving targets.

Replace On A Schedule That Fits Your Playing

Strings age by environment and touch as much as hours. Signs it’s time:

  • Dull or “dead” tone that won’t brighten after cleaning
  • Persistent tuning drift even after proper stretching
  • Visible grime or corrosion, flat spots under common fretting positions
  • Unraveling at the tuner or a tired silk wrap creeping into the nut or saddle area

Roundwounds typically turn over faster; flatwounds can run months (or years) depending on taste. If you record often or need consistent brightness for slap and pick work, shorter intervals keep your tone predictable.

Note: If you love the thump of broken-in strings, there’s no rule that says “newer is better.” Replace on your tone schedule, not the calendar.

Shop Bass Guitar Parts And Strings At StewMac

When you’re ready for the next set—or when today’s restring reveals a tired nut, a buzzy saddle, or a cranky tuner—we stock the bass parts we trust on our own benches. From reliable tuners and bridges to string winders, fretboard guards, oils, and a wide range of bass string sets and scales, you can outfit your instrument and your toolkit with confidence. If you’re unsure which string length or construction suits your bass, reach out—we’re happy to help you choose the right fit the first time.

Frequently Asked Questions

How Often Should I Change Bass Strings?

It depends on your sound and hours. Gigging players who want crisp highs and lively attack may change every few weeks; regular practice players might stretch to every 2–3 months. If you prefer the thump and fundamental of broken-in strings, you can run them much longer—especially flats. Let your ears be the guide. If cleaning no longer restores clarity or tuning becomes fussy, it’s time.

Note: Sweat chemistry and humidity matter—acidic sweat and humid stages shorten string life.

Flatwound Vs Roundwound—What Changes In Feel And Tone?

Roundwounds have textured windings that give you more upper harmonics, growl, and finger noise—excellent for bright fingerstyle, slap, and pick definitions. Flatwounds have a smooth outer wrap; they feel silky, reduce string and fret noise, and emphasize fundamental with a warm, even decay. They’re favorites for soul, jazz, Motown-style lines, and players who like a slick feel under the left hand. Pressurewounds and half-rounds sit between: smoother than rounds with a bit more bite than traditional flats.

Note: If you’re concerned about fret wear, flats and pressurewounds are gentler on frets than aggressive stainless roundwounds.

Is It OK To Remove All Strings At Once?

Yes—if there’s a reason (deep clean, fret polish, bridge service). The neck won’t “warp” from a brief period without tension. Just plan to re-verify relief, action, and intonation after you install the set. If your bass has a floating bridge or unique hardware that can shift when untensioned, take quick reference photos before you start.

Note: If you’re mid-gigging season, the “one-at-a-time” approach minimizes the chance of a post-restring setup surprise.

Do I Need Different Lengths For Short-Scale Or 5-String Basses?

Absolutely. Choose strings by winding length (ball end to start of silk/taper), not only by the scale number on the package. A 30" short-scale with a string-through bridge can require longer winding length than a top-loaded 30". Likewise, many 5-strings benefit from tapered B strings for clean saddle contact. Check your bridge style and measure so the taper isn’t sitting on the wrong side of the saddle or crossing the nut.

Note: If the silk or taper crosses the nut, or the silk crosses the saddle, or the string does not contact the saddle at the taper, tuning and tone suffer—select a different winding length or change loading method (top-load vs through-body).

Why Does My Bass Slip Out Of Tune After A Restring?

New strings settle. If the winds are neat, the ball is seated, and witness points are set, the usual culprits are:

  • No initial stretch: Do a few gentle stretch-and-retune cycles.
  • Wind overlaps or too few wraps: Aim for 2–3 wraps on heavy strings and 3–4 on lighter ones, all descending the post.
  • Nut friction: Add a touch of dry lube and make sure the string isn’t sawing across a tight slot.
  • Trapped twist: Back off, straighten the run from tuner to nut, and retension smoothly.

Note: Persistent drift after a careful restring can point to loose tuner hardware or a slipping string at the post—check bushing and screw tightness and verify that first “pinning” wrap.



Video Transcription

[on-screen text reads: D'Addario Core Presents - Restringing a Bass Guitar]

Rob Cunningham: I'm happy to have Doug Redler here with me. Doug, you authored a book about guitar maintenance.

Doug Redler: That's right.

Rob Cunningham: You've been Guitar Tech to guys like Rich Robinson and the Black Crowes.

Doug Redler: Currently, with Slash.

Rob Cunningham: So we have the privilege of having you show us how to change strings on this electric bass. What are the essential parts of this instrument?

Essential parts of a bass guitar

Doug Redler: Very simply, the parts of your Fender Precision Bass, volume control, tone control, the bridge, the saddles, which are the part that the strings go over. You have your two pickups classic on a P-Bass, thumb rests, your neck, metal frets, the nut, tuners, and your string tree.

Rob Cunningham: All right, so Doug, we need some new strings on here. These have been on here a while. Where do we start? How do we take these strings off?

Remove the old strings

Doug Redler: Very easy. And I always like to use my D'Addario Pro Winder. You can see at this part of the winder is wider to fit onto the base tuning keys. Very simply, I'm going to take them off all at one time. Basses are real easy strings come right out of the slots and you could cut them or just pull them through. This type of bridge, let me just slide them right through, real easy.

Rob Cunningham: All right, now they're off the instrument. What do we do next?

Install the new strings

Doug Redler: Easy. Get our strings. We're using just regular light gauge strings, D'Addario XLs. I like to make a little bend before I put it in there because you have to get it over the saddle.

Rob Cunningham: That's just to make it easy to get the string through.

Doug Redler: Exactly. Okay, so pull through. Make sure the ball end of the string gets right up to the bridge there. Nice and tight. You're going over the saddle.

Rob Cunningham: All right.

Doug Redler: You pull it tight, and I usually have to go about two tuners past the tuner that I'm stringing. The one that string it up. Right. So I'm stringing the E so we're going to go one over the A and one over the D-string. Give it a little cut.

Rob Cunningham: Why is it important to get this length correctly?

Doug Redler: Well, because you want it to be very neat. You don't want the string to overlap itself. That'll all affect your tuning.

Rob Cunningham: Okay.

Doug Redler: Just put it right down in the hole in the slot. I like to wrap it around once, maybe twice. Push it down to make it tight. Get the Pro Winder, bring it over this. You want to make sure it's over the saddle.

Rob Cunningham: So that's it. It's that easy.

Doug Redler: Counterclockwise, and the same thing with the rest of those strings. Everything looks great under the string trees, over the saddles. Nice and tight behind the bridge. Now we stretch. It's really important to give it a good stretch. Can't overemphasize that enough. Once the guitar stays in tune after a couple of times you've stretched enough. See? Dropped about a half a step. We're going to bring it back up and go again. And we'll keep stretching until it stays in tune. And that's how you know. All right, all yours.

Rob Cunningham: All right, see you.

StewMac

 

Doug Redler

Guitar Tech and Author