Introduction
Nitrocellulose lacquer is synonymous with well-crafted, vintage and modern instruments. It's relatively easy to apply and buff to a beautiful, high gloss finish. The look, feel, and tone of nitrocellulose is hard to surpass, and it is easier than many finishes to repair or touch-up.
Stringed Instrument Lacquer produces a hard, durable finish that's less brittle and more flexible than standard furniture lacquer, to accommodate the expansion and contraction of wooden instruments. The finish has better resistance to cold-checking and scuffs. It's ready to spray with no thinning required, for faster finish build-up in multiple coats.
Application tips
Nitrocellulose finishes should have a total 6-12 coats — sealer, color, and clear coats combined. The total number will depend upon how thick your coats are, how much sanding you do, and what your final desired film thickness is. Beginners should spray 10-12 coats to avoid sanding or buffing through the finish. As you gain experience, you'll find that fewer coats are required.
The first coat should be a light, misting coat to the instrument — often referred to as a "tack-coat." After 45-minutes or so, apply another, more deliberate "wet-coat." Future coats should be wet, and be sure to give 1-2 hours between coats to allow the solvents to rise out of the finish. Be careful when applying wet-coats, as it's easy to create a run or sag on edges, or while trying to apply finish into the tighter areas of an instrument.
If you do get a run or sag, simply let the finish harden (24-hours) and level sand the blemish using 400-grit sandpaper and a backing block.
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Wood Preparation
• Clean up surface imperfections
• Sand to 220-grit |
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Porous Wood
Rosewood, Mahogany,
Ash, Koa, Walnut, etc. |
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Non-Porous Wood
Maple, Spruce, Alder,
Ebony, Basswood, etc. |
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Wet Sand and Buff
Allow finish to cure 10-14 days
Wet sand with 800-grit and finer sanding papers, then buff to a high-gloss using sanding papers, polishes, and buffers.
More info on wet sanding.
More info on buffing. |
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