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A new chisel isn’t ready to use At the factory, chisels are ground to a bevel of from 25° to 35°, but it’s left up to you to put the final edge on it. |
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| This chisel is an inexpensive one from a Lowe’s home improvement store. You can see the grinder marks on the bevel; when I’m done sharpening it, these marks will be almost gone. The front and back surfaces will become flat and mirror-smooth, while still keeping this factory-ground angle. |
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I use my diamond fret levelers to sharpen chisels. They’re the best tool I’ve ever found for this job. |
Diamond Fret Levelers |
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| Step 1: Sharpening | |||||||||||||||||
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Flatten the bottom of the chisel by holding it flat to your sharpening stone and working it back and forth lengthwise on coarse, then medium, then fine grits. |
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Holding the bevel to the stone without tipping isn’t easy, and a fancy sharpening jig like this one helps a lot. You can save yourself that expense by making your own. Here’s how: |
Stewart-MacDonald Super Glues |
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Step 2: Honing After sharpening, honing brings the edge to a finer point. Hone on fine sandpaper double-stick-taped to a flat surface. My bandsaw table works great, and so does a thick piece of plate glass. |
3m Gold Fre-Cut Sandpaper |
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After honing, I can see a slight recess in the bottom of the chisel. When it’s more exaggerated than this, it’s called a hollow grind. Japanese chisels are hollow-ground, making honing easier because you’re only removing metal from the edges. I don’t think this hollow-grind was intentional, but I was glad to have it. |
Micro Finishing Papers |
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A stack of three repair magnets holds the bevel flat against the steel surface of my fret leveler while I slide my wooden angle jig into position underneath the chisel. |
1" Repair Magnets |
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I found that three magnets held too tight, but two magnets were just right. I honed the bevel with six grits: Fre-Cut in 600 and 800, then micro paper from 1000 to 2000 grit. |
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After 2,000-grit, this bevel’s really sharp! |
Teflon Fret Dam |
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![]() Raise the chisel in the wooden guide by 1 or 2 degrees to create a secondary “micro-bevel,” which you can see in this closeup. It’s a tiny extra bevel right at the tip, and it’s super sharp. Finally, strop the micro-bevel and the back by rubbing them on the rough side of a piece of leather taped to your flat surface and smeared with medium polishing compound. This polishes the steel and finishes the sharpening job. |
Double-stick Tape ColorTone Polishing Compounds |
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You’ll love the end result: a wicked-sharp chisel that slices plastic binding like cutting a stick of butter!![]() |
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| Problem-solving products for this kind of work: | |||||||||||||||
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| ColorTone Polishing Compounds High-quality polishes used by professionals around the world. |
Diamond Fret Levelers Industrial diamond-coated steel blocks. Excellent for putting a razor edge on chisels and knives, and great for leveling frets! |
Micro Finishing Papers Special papers with uniform micro-grit particles, for wet-sanding scratch-free finishes. |
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| Teflon Fret Dam NEW! Pulling old frets can chip a fretboard: keep the slots clean and glue-free for repairs. |
Double-stick Tape Clear polyester tape with adhesive on both sides, for holding router templates and attaching acoustic guitar pickguards. |
Guitar Repair Magnets These seriously strong magnets make inventive repair techniques possible. |
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