Binding Router Guide

As others have mentioned, it is not the most stable router base, as it is small, but that's what it's suppposed to be - as advertised, for archtop instruments. I haven't used it on a guitar yet, but testing on a piece of scrap I think that this can work, although it will need lots of care. I'm sure there's better solutions, but for the price, I would give it a try.

It is a great tool, except for the fact the height of the roller is not adustable. Being so, I always have to improvise some sort of template or jig to employ it. I think the pictures in the site are a bit misleading, as this product is not ideal for long routes. There are better/more stable tools for routing extensive lenghts. This tool (IMO) is better suited to headstocks, cutaways and small hard to reach areas.

As others have noted, keeping the roller flat against the side of the guitar is tricky at best. VERY easy for the Dremel tool to rock. The brass roller is just too small. I made a new screw and roller with the roller about 3/4" long and left an extended screw head to provide a grip with my other hand. Now and can easily see when the roller is in full contact with the side and I can guide the tool with two hands. It's still a bit frustrating to set the cutter bit depth (length?), having to remove the tool, loosen the collet, move the bit, lock it down and check it again. I'm thinking of making some thin plastic shims to put between the tool and the Dremel.

It ultimately did the job, but sure am glad I am working on a cheap guitar for my first effort.

I am in the process of finishing a Stewmac A mandolin kit and needed to cut my binding channels. Since this is my first mandolin build I didn't want the expense of the router table and needed a simple tool for the job. This tool is fantastic - it does a superb job IF you do your part! Let me give you a few details. First, you will need a good instrument vise, you CANNOT route a binding channel with an instrument body in a sloppy mount. If the mandolin or guitar body is solidly mounted you will be able to hold this tool perpendicular to the edge and get excellent results. Simply move the body around in the vise to where you can comfortably observe your cutter. Secondly, do NOT climb cut... conventional cut your way around the body. Look up the differences between climb cutting and conventional cutting. In my case I started with the back of the mandolin facing to my right and the bearing of the Dremel on my left (on the side of the mandolin body). I continued all the way around the instrument in that fashion. The top is done in the same way. Thirdly, find some scrap and practice your settings - they are easy to set, but take your time and make sure it is exactly what you want/need. The only time my settings shifted a bit was when I climb cut the end of my test piece to fit my binding - lesson learned... don't climb cut!!! The Stewmac binding bit is great, as well. My binding channel is actually more accurate than my binding! Yes, binding tends to be of different thicknesses through its length- so take note. I set my speed at about 25K and got clean results, no burning or tearing of the wood. In truth, it is more difficult to chisel out the remaining wood where the cutter can't reach than to use this tool. One last thing, don't worry if you get the channel a little skew, or deep. You can keep some of your cutter remnants and fill the area before you glue in the binding - all the little sins are hidden by the time you scrape/sand the binding to the sides, top, and bottom. I'll take a few shots after the glue dries. Much success in your projects!

This tool works precisely the way it's advertised, provided you also buy the recommended carbide bit. I am a non-pro who makes relatively few instruments, and this tool does exactly what I expected it to do. You do need to continually monitor the roller to make sure it's got good contact, but ANY handheld tool requires similar care.

I am not happy with this tool.
1. This tool very much not convenient, it is difficult to expose the necessary parameters.
2. The worst in it that the six-sided screw (which regulates depth of bit) is made of a soft alloy of metal. The screw has quickly failed. I had to cut a six-sided screw under a screw-driver somehow to use this router in my work.
3. Now I am compelled to search for stronger screw for replacement of an old screw.
4. I consider that the tool demands completion.
5. I put two stars only because by means of a router I could make something in my project.
It is better to get expensive, but the qualitative professional router.

I bought this tool to rout an archtop for binding. Be forewarned - this tool will do the job but you must be VERY CAREFUL. Go very slowly and monitor the guide bearing continuously. It must be absolutely parellel to the side of the guitar or you will have a rout of varying depth and width. Even then, some variation will occur, but it is manageable.

My experience: for archtop guitars the TrueChannel binding jig would probably be much better. This Binding Router Guide works best on flat top guitars.

Well, as other rewiewer said, this tool isn't the best tool for professional binding work. The tool alone makes very uneven surface, maybe you should take 2-3 passes for the recommended binding depth. The result is so-so.

I got the idea to fix the problem with a dremel stand. I bought it very cheap at the local toolshop for about 30 bucks. It holds the dremel very good, it will not move during work sideways. I take out the spring of the drill stand, so the dremel will move permanently down, followin the surface because of his weight. With this idea i got a very even and professional result. The channel is percectly straight and the surface is even. Only 3 stars, because the tool alone doesn't work for me.

The small contact patch of this jig is the whole point of having it in the first place. It allows you to get into tight spaces. I like the tool but it always slips my height adjustment for some reason the depth of cut gets greater as I cut. You have to take very very small cuts as you approach your final depth.

I'm not a luthier, just a guy that likes making instruments. This made binding for my Balalaika project easy. That's saying something because it's loaded with every angle imaginable and I have never installed binding before. It's not finished yet but you may get the idea