Bleached White Bone Saddles

These saddle blank come with a lot if spaces left. I was first scared about the size. But when they reach me, they are all oversize by a lot. So just order which that closest to yours. I had done a saddle for myself which compensated string by string. The quality is great. Give a little bit patient and it can be shaped easily.

Replaced the OEM plastic saddle (and nut) on my Yamaha G-231 classical and was surprised what a difference it made! Setting the action to StewMac recommendations greatly improved playability, and the bone nodes really opened up the mid tones for a clearer, less 'muddy' sound without compromising the mellow bass. An economical way to upgrade older entry level instruments for modern 'mid-tier' performance.

Good quality bleached bone for all instruments.(Pic is my personal dreadnaught with rose inlay on fingerboard extention)

From my first classical guitar in 1976 till just recently I cut and processed my nuts and saddles from cow femurs.
I do not need to tell you the time and work that was involved. What a pleasure it was to acquire the bone
from Stew Mac. It arrived the day after I ordered it and it was clean, square and true. It was just over sized enough for my liking.

Replacing a saddle means the old one doesn't work anymore. You have to adjust dimensions to fit the instrument, so that's no biggie. The important part is quality and service. Everything I've purchased from StewMac has always been good, and when I've had to order special items, StewMac always delivered. You guys are the best!

I have two 2-year olds in the house. Hence the reason I sold the Taylor.

Now I have an el-cheapo acoustic and it's painfully inadequate. Or I should say "was".

I replaced the saddle and the pins with much MUCH higher quality ones from StewMac. Threw on new strings and holy cow... it's so much more responsive. I wish I could compare it with my long-lost Taylor.

For the newbies - it's worth noting I've never carved, shaped, repaired, ANYTHING-ed a guitar. I've never even done fine woodworking or carving. I just took the old saddle out, traced it, used the Dremel to approximate the shape, then some 100 grit to get the final profile.

I am certain that a trained luthier would look and think my saddle sophomoric. But the intonation is still there, no buzzing, action is passable... works for me! I didn't get fancy with the top. I just rounded it, no offsets or anything.

Okay... long-winded. Oh yeah, bone dust stinks and the stink will linger so change your shirt afterwards or find a less dusty approach.

Quality from StewMac!

I agree with an earlier reviewer, the Martin 3/32" (.094") blanks, while nominally correct, are often a bit too thin for Martin slots, which can trend closer to .100" for some reason (they may widen slightly over time from bridge shrinkage.) The Gibson blanks are thicker (a bit too much!) than the nominal 1/8", I'd like to find the Martin blanks at .100" and dress them back down a few thou as required.

I have noticed, particularly with the #6031 blanks, the thickness is usually quite a bit greater than the already generous 9/64" (.140"), often .150". I know the last thing you want is an undersize blank, but the normal Gibson saddle is "1/8" or .125 - .130, so having to shave off .020" is a lot. I'd prefer the blanks to be limited to .135" max, and add an "extra thick" blank of say .150" for those oddball wide slots.

These blanks are always consistent, and the pricing is great.