A friend of mine asked if I could repair her cello. The neck broke when someone tripped over it many years ago leaving a crack right above where the neck meets the body of the cello.
At first I glued the neck back together with Titebond glue and held the neck back with bungy cords. That lasted for two days and came apart again once the string tension was increased.
Next, I pried off the fingerboard and drilled three pilot holes through the dense maple wood. I screwed three stainless steel bolts dipped in Titebond glue to secure the neck.
Then I applied several layers off Titebond glue, over three days, where the crack in the neck occurred by letting the glue seep into the crack.
I reattached the fingerboard with a small amount of glue and strung that baby up.
The cello is in perfect playing condition again and I have a very grateful friend.
I have used this stuff a number of times over the last few months , simply the best product I have ever used. Easy cleanup , strong as an Ox.
Repaired an Epi Les Paul neck, it is stronger then new. For bonding wood, nothing else comes close.
I have glued scarf joints for guitar necks for 20 years and this glue never breaks loose. Glue two scrap pieces together and try to break them apart. "Can't be done"
I am a carpenter by day and Luthier by night and this product is used all the time , day and night. Great stuff bonds wood beatifically easy clean-up.
I build open back banjos with block rims. All if my joining of necks and rims blocks are done with Titebond and it is the best for this purpose in my process. I do use it for the peghead overlay too. However, for serviceable joints like attaching fingerboards I use hide glue so the next guy down the road can repair the banjo.
I'd us this glue to stick the mother-in-law to a bridge if I could get away with it...LOL
This glue is the only glue I use its great.
We find that when thinned a bit, and braces are moistened prior to repair, that even antique brace repair jobs have favorable results using Franklin TiteBond!
If it can do the above, it can handle your job!
IMPROVEMENT SUGGESTION: WE ARE WAITING for Stew Mac to design a 'pressurized' dispenser. Something like a 'guitar repair shop sized' chaulking gun machine, so that dispensing small amounts into various applicators could be hassle free.
I use Titebond, and Titebond 3 for everything I build. I actually prefer Titebond 3 now because it's open-time is a little longer, and it's 100% resistant to water. I've done experiments with all types of wood glues, and this brand is the best. It's stronger than any wood I've ever run into. The wood will always break, not the joint. A 16-oz bottle usually lasts for 2 to 4 guitars, depending on construction. The only time I won't use it is on acoustic neck joints. I use hide glues for that since the neck will eventually have to be reset. I love this stuff, and won't use anything else.
I bought the tight bond I have say its the best glue that there is. I built a finger board and glued it in with this glue, sanded it down, and the feel of the glue after sanded its like nothing. There for I am buying a lot of items for my shop from stewart Macdonald
thanks to all at Stewart Macdonald for all of the building material
First time user.Repaired a broken neck.
The joint is now as strong as the rest of the guitar. Easy clean up, easy sanding , and had a good tack when the wood was clamped.
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