Actually I've bought just the switch, (not the entire kit) and came here for the schematic. Even if the switch is a nice one, it won't fit inside some guitars. I have a PRS SE Custom (1 Vol, 1 Tone, 1 3-way toggle), and I could not have it installed. And the schematic don't seem right either; - in position 2 we get "inner coils in series", instead of "outer coils in parallel"; - in position 3 we get "inner coils in parallel" instead of "outer coils in series"; - in position 4, we get "outer coils in parallel" instead of "inner coils in parallel" So, positions 2 and 4 are swapped and position 3 is slightly different from the PRS wiring, basically because the PRS Switch is a custom switch and we actually need 6 poles to emulate that switch (like in the "PRS wiring #2" schematic at Seymour Duncan website ). That's not a big issue, and I think this is the closer you can get to PRS wiring with this switch. Speaking of the schematic, there's another thing: Like some people already said, you need to ground the tone pot, otherwise it won't work!
First of all, the materials were all first class. The instructions were very clear, easy to follow, and when I plugged in the guitar - it worked! Everything worked fine, the rotary switch gave me all the tones I wanted, and the bleeder capacitor on the volume pot works great. The only problem that I saw was that the diagram did not show the tone pot grounded. I grounded it anyway. However, I didn't try the guitar without the ground so I can't tell you if it should be grounded or not. I installed the components on a PRS copy, that I varnished like Al Dimeola's signature guitar - the Prism. This guitar, along with his signature pickups will give any PRS the run for their money!
Need too use 500 ohm mini pots when using this kit other style guitars. The large pots are nice if you have the room.
I am not a pro at this stuff at all. My brother and I wired this kit up to my Agile PRS Copy. This really makes it sound like a PRS. My brother has a PRS with HFS and vintage Bass pickups in it. I have 59' seymour duncans. I had to do a polarity swap in my magnets to make it work with the kit, but the kit is truly amazing. My guitar plays like a dream, and now it sounds like one too. My brother says it sounds as good, if not better than his PRS. Truly amazing kit. Wouldn't do this alone though. It's a tough kit to wire. It was our first kit to ever do, and it works, but I would have someone with experience help you out if it is your first.
The guitar I had was a hair too thick and the nut wouldn't seat. Since my guitar has a beautiful a carved top with knob recesses I didn't want to make it any thinner. Also, I ended up only using the unshielded wire on the switch and for the string ground. I had shielded cable left over from another project and used that to connect the knobs switch and output jack together. As a bonus it looks less like spaghetti.
I love this kit! I was amazed by the rotary switch on the PRS but after making my own and realizing how hard it is to switch positions while needing to switch fast on stage. I'm going to go with the 5 way blade switch that does the same coil tapping as this rotary. On the other side, Yes, the tone needs to be grounded. If you shielded your Control cavities like they need to be, the tone grounds itself against the shield paint and the kit sounds 10x better.
This is a great wiring kit for any guitar. I wired my custom homemade telecaster with it and I can play anything from classic rock to the thin, twangy, funky guitar sound used by Michael Jackson. I agree with another reviewer that the wiring diagram is wrong and the tone control needs to be grounded. I also agree that it is very difficult and time-consuming to solder the switch. Don't tackle this project unless you are good at soldering. Having said that, I love this wiring kit and will probably never build another guitar without it!
All the components are there, but I think there is a mistake. It didn't work until I wired a ground to the tone control which is not shown on the wiring diagram. Also, there is so much soldering to do on the rotary switch, that it would be nice if that was already done
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