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For 8 binding widths, including Herringbone purfling
Binding Router Bit Set
The special bushed bearings in this set match our standard binding thicknesses (and more). An extra .012" built in, to compensate for the swelling of the binding and the wood fibers during gluing, and for glue thickness. The result is a near-flush joint with only minimal scraping or sanding required on the adjacent wood surface. Scraping the binding is usually unnecessary.
See details below
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Routing for binding using the Binding Router Bit Set
Instructions for routing
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i-1298 Updated 03/07
The interchangeable bushed bearings allow you to cut binding ledges of eight different depths: .040", .060", .075", .090", .100", .120", .150", and .200" (for Herringbone). If you measure the width of a cut carefully, you’ll find that the ledge produced from using any of the bearings is .012" wider than the stated size of the bearing/cutter combination. This allows for swelling of wood fibers from gluing, as well as for the thickness of the glue itself. Glued plastic binding will swell considerably as it absorbs the glue solvents. Wood bindings glued with wood glues that contain water will swell also. Without the extra .012" width, swollen bindings will overhang the ledge, requiring unnecessary scraping and sanding.
Here are some tips on routing binding ledges with binding router bits, and on routing in general.
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Hand-held routing
The instrument must be held securely. Guitars, mandolins, banjos, and others can be tricky to clamp. One way to secure the instrument is by screwing several close-fitting wood blocks onto your work surface around the body. Thin strips of veneer or heavy cardboard can be lightly wedged between the blocks and the body to hold it fast. To rout a guitar, you can also use a U-shaped “waist clamp” made of plywood and fastened to the front edge of your workbench for most of the routing.
Use a dial caliper to set your router cutting dimensions, and always make a few test cuts on scrap wood until you get the proper height.
Wood tear-out is always possible when routing with long-grain quartersawn tone woods. On a guitar body, for example, the four areas shown on the guitar in the illustration are prone to tear-out. Therefore, start with four “climb-cuts,” so-called because the router is “climbing,” or being pulled along as the bit grabs the wood. Viewed from overhead, the cutter is rotating clockwise and moving into wood, which is on the right-hand side of the bit. This will minimize the chance of wood tear-out.
The safest way to rout the guitar would be to make four climb-cuts at the centers of the top and lower bouts on both the treble and bass sides, with the router base moving in the direction of the rotating cutter (clockwise). Rout up to the areas indicated by the arrows. When these four cuts have been made, you can move the router in the opposite direction (counterclockwise), cutting into the wood rather than climbing. Make one continuous pass around the guitar. When you reach the areas that were already climb-cut, the router will pass without tear-out.
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Secure your work piece with a U-shaped “waist clamp”.
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To minimize wood tear-out, start routing with four “climb-cuts”, followed by one continuous cut in the opposite direction.
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After routing, use a file to smooth out any irregularities in the routed channels if necessary.
Router tables
Where years ago most of us used hand-held routers for all our work, today more shops than ever have router tables — from heavy-duty industrial versions, to the small bench-top four-legged router tables sold by Sears and other suppliers. Much of your binding routing can be done most effectively on a router table.
The router mounts from below with the cutter projecting up through a hole in the table, and the workpiece is laid face down on the table and moved into the rotating cutter. The same rules for tear-out apply to router tables, but since the router is fixed, and you are holding the work piece firmly, you have great control over how you feed the piece into the cutter.
For archtop instruments, such as the mandolin and archtop guitar, the router table is the perfect tool for accurate routing in a small shop. A small wood ring of appropriate height is double-stick taped around the cutter on the table to raise the instrument to the right height, and keep it square to the cutter. Small smooth-bottomed spool clamps on opposite sides keep the instrument on the proper plane for routing. Rout as far as you can, move the spool clamps, then continue until finished.
Extension bushing
A small extension bushing is provided to set the bearings either close to the bit or 3/32" away from the bit. When routing multiple passes with relatively tall binding, it’s a good idea to place the bushing between the bearing and the cutter to avoid the possibility of the bearing dropping into the previous cut.
Another good time to use the bushing is when glue squeeze- out has dripped down the sides and hardened. Use of the bushing here can avoid having the bearing roll over the dried glue.
Leave the bushing off when routing a neck with fretboard attached. The round over of the neck will cause the binding depth to vary if the bearing is set too high.
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Shown on pages 29, and 31 of our latest catalog.
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Details
Pictures
Instructions
