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Waterbase Finishing Schedule
Standard process for finishing an instrument with Target waterbase lacquer
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i-waterbase
Updated 09/11
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 Processing...
Special waterbase application tip
Waterbase finish doesn't look wet and glossy as you're spraying, unlike
nitrocellulose lacquer. Be careful not to lay it on too thick, looking
for that glossy wetness. Good lighting is very important. Spray light
coats, carefully overlap your spray pattern by 1/3-1/2 for coverage
with uniform thickness.
This newly-sprayed coat is wet, but looks dry and pebbly (like orange peel).
Moments later, it turns wet and glossy.
When finally dry, it turns satin-smooth.
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Wood preparation
Clean surface of dust and oils.
Sand to 220-grit. |
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Porous wood
Rosewood, Mahogany,
Ash, Koa, Walnut, etc. |
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Non-porous wood
Maple, Spruce, Alder,
Ebony, Basswood, etc. |
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Sanding sealer
3-4 coats • 2 coats per day • 2 hours apart
Sanding between coats is not required, except to remove surface defects.
Sand last coat of sealer with 600-grit sandpaper to prepare surface for top coats.
Allow final sealer coats to dry 12 hours prior to topcoats.
Target Waterbase Sanding Sealer
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Clear topcoats
6-8+ coats • 2-3 coats per day • 2 hours apart
The total number of top coats is subjective to the final finish required by the builder. Fine sand between each coat with 600-grit sandpaper to remove surface defects.
Allow to cure for 120-150 hours prior to sanding and buffing.
Target Waterbase Lacquer
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Wet-sand and buff
Allow finish to cure 6-days
Wet sand with 1200-grit and finer sanding papers.
Buff to a high gloss.
Tips on buffing
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