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Waterbase Finishing Schedule
Standard process for finishing an instrument with waterbase lacquer
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i-waterbase
Updated 06/06
Special waterbase application tip
Waterbase finish doesn't look wet and glossy as you're spraying, unlike
nitrocellulose lacquer. Be careful not to lay it on too thick, looking
for that glossy wetness. Good lighting is very important. Spray light
coats, carefully overlap your spray pattern by 1/3-1/2 for coverage
with uniform thickness.
This newly-sprayed coat is wet, but looks dry and pebbly (like orange peel).
Moments later, it turns wet and glossy.
When finally dry, it turns satin-smooth.
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Wood preparation
Clean surface of dust and oils.
Sand to 220-grit. |
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Porous wood
Rosewood, Mahogany,
Ash, Koa, Walnut, etc. |
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Non-porous wood
Maple, Spruce, Alder,
Ebony, Basswood, etc. |
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Sanding sealer
12-16 coats • 3-4 coats per day • 2-3 hours apart
Do not exceed 48 hours between sealer coats.
If it's been over 48 hours, you must sand with 320-grit so that future coats will adhere.
Allow final sealer coats to dry 24 hours prior to topcoats.
ColorTone Waterbase Sanding Sealer
Full instructions |
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Wet-sand and buff
Allow finish to cure 6-days
Wet sand with 1200-grit and finer sanding papers.
Buff to a high gloss.
Tips on buffing
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