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JLD Bridge Doctor

4.5
  • 90 Reviews
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JLD Bridge Doctor Screw mount

Screw mount

Item # 3694
In stock, ready to ship!

$22.50

3 or more $20.02
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JLD Bridge Doctor Brass pin mount

Brass pin mount

Item # 3695
In stock, ready to ship!

$52.75

3 or more $46.95
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JLD Bridge Doctor

About This Item

• Enhances volume
• Flattens 'bellied' soundboards

A unique solution to a common bridge problem, this spruce device attaches beneath a guitar bridge. An adjustable spruce "pressure post" rests against the tailblock, providing leverage to flatten the soundboard.

The spruce block is 3/4" x 1-5/8" x 3-3/8" tall. The 1/4"-diameter tension rod is 9" long. The mounting post has three different positions to accomodate a variety of bridge styles.

Screw mount: This spruce device attaches beneath the bridge via an inlaid screw (a white pearloid dot is included to hide the bridge screw). An adjustable spruce pressure post rests against the tailblock, providing leverage to flatten the soundboard. Better bridge contact and alignment can also enhance sound projection.

Brass pin mount: The pin-mounted version of the JLD Bridge Doctor attaches beneath the bridge using a threaded brass bridge pin. The strings mount horizontally through the tops of the matching brass bridge pins (included).

StewMac Tech Tip: We recommend the brass pin mount version for 12-string guitars.


Instructions

Product Instructions

JLD Bridge Doctor Instructions

How to install the JLD Bridge Doctor in an acoustic guitar.

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4.5
  • 4.52 average rating from 90 reviews
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5.0

Super upgrade

By
(Customer's Reviews)


I have tested the JLD Bridge Doctor in various guitars, laminate & solid wood, and have ound that the Bridge Doctor not only takes out belly bulge but can also increase sustain and give most guitars a better overall sound.

5.0

Works exactly as described.

By
(Customer's Reviews)


I have a 1977 Yamaha FG 345 that had moderate bowing of the top. The Bridge Doctor includes very clear and easy to understand instructions. It was very simple to mount and install. I made my initial adjustment with the strings still removed and could see a noticeable lessening of the bowing. I let it sit overnight and made a second adjustment before stringing it up.

The string tension counteracted the device a little but subsequent adjustments at the next string changes should alleviate that. My action has improved and the guitar does seem to project a bit more loudly as some others have noted. I am impressed with the device. It is simple, easy to install and does exactly what it says it will. I would recommend this for guitars with mild to moderate bowing.

5.0

Tricky to install on a parlor but worth it

By
(Customer's Reviews)


Does exactly what you expect, pulls the bridge back and flattens out a belly bulge, and means you can use higher tension strings on vintage guitars. I installed one in my 1927 Stromberg parlor. It was a little tricky because my hand only just fits through the sound hole and in the case of the Stromberg which has only one ladder brace under the bridge, I had to cut down the tube piece that the bolt screws into to get the right fit. Make sure it is tightly in place, or you will be removing it like I had to and making more adjustments. The benefits are these- stronger bridge, you can use heavier strings, intonation was fixed right away because the bridge no longer tilts forward, the sound is a big change however; tighter more defined, less boomy, precise and still warm, the guitar starts to feel like a real instrument now instead of a boomy resonant beast, highly recommended for every ladder braced parlor and MUCH cheaper than pulling the top to have an x brace installed, just find someone with small hands to fit it for you. If you are not DIY savvy I would let your guitar tech install it.

5.0

Great for Family Guitars

By
(Customer's Reviews)


I bought this to fix a family guitar that needed the belly fixed. This product works great.

5.0

My 12 string, strings were getting so far I could not play it.

By
(Customer's Reviews)


I bought the JLD Bridge Doctor actually because of a friends recommendation because I said I would probably throw the guitar away.
He told me you need to go onto Stewart MacDonald's and get the bridge doctor and that would take care of the problem because he did the same thing.
I never knew they sold something that would straighten up the bridge again and here it is.

5.0

Love this product

By
(Customer's Reviews)


I put it into my Masterbilt that is only a little over a year old. Even with keeping it humidified and in the proper temperature range it was beginning to belly up. It had also lost some of its beautiful tone. I installed the Bridge Doctor. Took me about 2 hours but I was being very careful, and meticulous. It took the belly out and re-leveled the bridge. With in a couple of days the beautiful tone returned to my guitar. I think once the stresses are removed from the spruce top it really allows it to vibrate as it should. I could not be happier. If I ever get another acoustic guitar I will put a bridge doctor in it first thing.

5.0

JLD Bridge Doctor is a fantastic invention. Better than I expected and my repair was swift and sure.

By
(Customer's Reviews)


Excellent improvement over pre-existing.
Seems to have done the job intended to a better than expected standard.
I had two flattops, my own actually, that had belly-up issues: one is an Italian built EKO Ranger 12; the other is a Gibson B-15, student model 6-string. I decided to try the JLD Bridge doctor on my own guitars before attempting it on a customer's repair. Both have height adjustable bridge saddles. The guitars have always been tuned to concert pitch, and the EKO has a two-way trussrod and a double T beam in the neck. There has never been a neck issue with either insrument. The bridge on the EKO had been reset at some point and although the remount held, the top went belly-up from years of string tension. About 20 years ago I had cleated the top on the B-15 as it had cracks and needed a brace replaced when I got it.I installed the standard on the EKO. The bridge has enough room to drill the mounting hole. The B-15 has a small bridge and so I installed the model with the brass pins. The installation in each case took about 45 minutes. The height adjustable bridges were a huge help as the saddles had never been shaved although the EKO had been replaced twice before, and restoring bridge height was simple. Currently, the action on both instruments is low and similar to Les Paul specs, which is my preference. Both are tuned to concert pitch without any return to the previous condition and the sound is clear and even across the range. The sound of the EKO sparkles and intonation is almost perfect. The sound of the B-15 is improving the more that it is played. No rattles, good intonation all the way up the scale, even beyond the 12th fret; in fact the sound and action beats many new lower end instruments I've worked on. My total outlay for the JLDs and new string sets was less than $100 for both guitars, not for each. Some reviewers have complained about the balled ends being exposed on the brass model. In the case of the B-15, the pin holes had worn considerably larger with age (it is an early B-15) and so I shimmed each brass pin with a 5 mm brass washer which fit perfectly and covered the old holes. Certainly the balled ends are exposed, but the sound is clear, the action is great and the guitar is VERY playable. I think a few words of caution. The JLD comes with three pre-drilled holes. These allow for some placement adjustment. Do that first OUTSIDE the instrument so that the lifting side of the cantilever is under the saddle. This enables it to work well in lifting the bridge into place and aids in the sound of the instrument. The B-15 has its original rosewood saddle; I plan to replace it with micarta which has similar characteristics to bone but is easier to work with. That will richen the B-15 further. It is important to be conservative in tightening the setscrew. It does NOT have to be torqued tight to work and is best if it still has some room for further adjustment if needs be. But I have both tuned to concert, including the EKO 12 and the sound is crystaline but very full and rich in spite of the highs, and the tops are both flat. Realize that flattops, particularly Gibsons, are sometimes not completely flat, so you have to discriminate conservatively. I've already been approached by the music minister at my church who wants a re-cond of his old Fender Malibu. He's played my guitars on occasion and is totally amazed at the transformation.

5.0

JLD Bridge System

By
(Customer's Reviews)


I recently bought a enexpensive Kona guitar with a bad belly behind the bridge and very sunken in at the sound hole, I read about the JLD system and thought I would try it, installation ws a breeze, but the guitar ws bellied so bad it did not relieve enough of the bulge.
So, I relieved the pressure on the sound post, and steamed the inside of the guitar, ( my mother in laws clothes steamer did the trick) and clamped down the belly as I did so, you have to be careful not to steam so much s to break lose the bracing, I left it clamped for about 12 hours, and then re applied pressure to the sound post on the JLD system, I tightened a couple turns, then reached inside and pulled the sound post down toward the bottom of the guitar, this slowly worked the post to a horizontal position with the guitar, (since the bridge was Badly tilted toward the sound hole).
After that I released the clamp, now my flat top has a flat top, is noticeably louder, and sounds very good, better than a lot of high dollar Martins I've played next too! (and before you Martin lovers start hateing on me, the owners of the Martins were surprised that a $100 dollar guitar sounded that good)
So, try the JLD, it works, just may need to finagall it a little bit!

5.0

JLD Bridge Doctor

By
(Customer's Reviews)


I received the JLD bridge doctor from stew mac, the one with the brass pins and put it on my new Epiphone DR500 MCE 6 string acoustic and has made a huge improvement in the sound. More volume clearer highs and ringing bass. It takes a couple of days of playing for it sound better not sure why but I guess the guitar has to relax? You should get yourself one of these. A benefit is that you stop bellying up that can happen in the future with the added support of this bracing system. I put the other type you have to drill through the bridge on my old Yamaha to fix a 35 year old bridge problem and it worked great but you don't need to drill using the brass pins setup. You only need one brass pin to hold the unit. It gives the same result in enhanced sound.

Stew mac always delivers their products with no surprises even in Canada.

3.0

Not a total solution

By
(Customer's Reviews)


I bought this Bridge Doctor to address the bridge belly issue with my classic 1979 Takamine EF385 12 string Dreadnought acoustic. I bought the pin version with he brass pins, since it was the recommended model for a 12 string. I received the order quickly, as I always do with my orders from Stewart MacDonald. Installation was not very complicated, and I had no issues with the installation. I adjusted the Bridge Doctor to take out most of the belly on the guitar while unstrung. I let it stabilize for a day or so before I proceeded to restring the guitar. After restring, and tuning to pitch, I set the guitar aside to allow it to stabilize once again under stress from the strings. I was disappointed to see that the guitar had reset to the bellied bridge once again. The Bridge Doctor did not seem to do any good at all. I contemplated tightening the bridge doctor a bit more, but the system seemed to be under so much stress as it was that I was afraid to add more pressure. The guitar had already popped one time during installation, and I did not want to separate a brace or kerfing. It did seem to add some support for the bridge, but it did not flatten the soundboard.

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