Bending Iron

The Ibex bending iron works fine but has a general cheap feel and is slow to heat up. Most notably, the violin/mandolin bending extension didn't fit the threads that are tapped into the main iron. The extension is the only reason I chose to buy this bending iron from Stewmac. I brought this to Stewmac's attention and their solution was to force the screw so that it would cut new threads into the aluminum bending iron. In order to do this I had to first file the opening of the boss in the aluminum so it would accept the long, unthreaded section at the tip of the machine screw. Once the threads hit the aluminum they chewed up the old threads without too much force. With the machine-screw snug, the connection between the main iron and the extension is solid. This aspect of the tool seems a bit cheap to me and I am suspect of the long term integrity of the threads. Two stars because a specialty tool should not require modification to be used as designed.

I had this iron for some years. It turned out to be a fantastic tool. But now the iron did not get hot enough anymore and I asked customer service for a replacement heating element. This was not available and without asking they offered to send me a completely new iron for free! Where do you find such a service? I'm happy, thank you very much.

I bought the bending iron in 2003 for the purpose of pre-bending those few pieces of wood that won't bend evenly when used for a rosette.

Last weekend I finally hit a piece of rosewood that was too stiff in the middle to bend like the rest and thought "finally, I can try this thing out." Well, it didn't work and I had never tested it.

So I wrote customer service, asking which part they thought needed replacing, given the results of my electrical testing. I was hoping they could direct me to a source too.

On Monday I got an email saying a new one plus a pre-paid shipping label to send the defective one back was on its way.

You can trust Stew Mac to not only treat you right, but treat you well. I was certainly treated better than I deserved. Nine years is a long time to let something sit without testing and the thought they would still stand behind it like I bought it yesterday is amazing.

I use the 220 volt bending iron for my rosette bindings and for brnding the wood to insert in the cutaway channel. I dont use it for bending sides as i prefer the templated option. Wood thickness is very important to effect a good quality bend. I wrap my wood in a wet piece of thin sheeting cover both with tin foil. I get a mineral free clean smooth finish.

I have been using this bending iron for over 20 years now and it has never let me down. I can't understand some of the comments that say it doesn't get hot enough. I bend mostly dulcimer sides out of quartersawn air dried walnut and spray with water as needed. It bends beautifully at a temperature setting a little over 4, which is approximately 260-280 degrees. For woods like curly koa, rosewood, curly maple, etc., I have better results soaking in hot water for about 10 minutes and they bend just fine with occasionally spraying with a little water as needed, at just a little higher temperature setting. Most of these woods are kiln dried which tend to make them brittle and need soaking. My dulcimers also have solid linings made of basswood, which I freehand bend at the same temperature, only spraying with water. Yes, the bender takes a little time to heat up; but I find the heat is constant and the iron holds it well. It's not suppose to bend a side instantly. I've had good luck with sides for guitar and mandolin as well. My bender is an older version and the only thing I wish it had was the attachment for small bends. Other than that, I only wish I had purchased it 34 years ago when I began building. Best investment in a luthier tool I ever made.

You need this product for touch up bending work etc. Could be a little larger but works well enough at this size.

I have bought this bending iron (220 Volt version) a few years back (2008) and it works just fine, no complaints so far (except first signs of disintegrating insulating pad at the base).

I have read repeatedly of poor performance regarding heating up speed (like 20 minutes or so) and/or max. (insufficient) temperature that could be reached. I can NOT confirm such shortcomings which maybe are due to some "Monday morning production" heating elements.

My iron takes about 8 minutes until reaching working temp. (water drops on the top will jump off the iron as sizzling balls) and will hold it at setting 4 (scale goes from Lo - 2 - 6 - High) or for some woods even less. Holds temperature within a pretty narrow range.

I just finished my first bend using highly figured maple. The instructions say it is difficult to bend figured maple but I found it almost too easy. I have a background in metal working and bending. I found that it bent wood very similar to metal. Just spritz the side your bending and apply light pressure and watch it go. Awesome wood bender. 5 star from me.

I bought this about 5 months ago. Finally used it. I mainly use it for bending my wood bindings. It did take a little while to heat up, but theres plenty to do in the shop, so Just plan ahead! I threaded a smooth shank bolt into the end so I could get the super tight radius that I need. 1/4 " to be exact. And on walnut, it worked great! Patience is all thats needed in bending wood. slow and steady will get it done!

First time ever trying to bend guitar sides. The Iron took a long time to heat, and then didn't stay hot enough do the job on oak. I placed a piece of 85 pound/foot rail on a kerosine heater, heated that to 375 degrees and got my first side bent acceptably.